博物之島 MUSEUMS

  Author: Chen, Pei-Hsin（Master’s Student, Graduate Institute of Museum Studies, Taipei National University of the Arts） Translator: Hsieh, Chia Chun (Executive Editor, Museum Island by the Ministry of Culture) When it comes to Chiayi cuisine, why does turkey rice the comes to mind first? As this iconic dish becomes increasingly synonymous with Chiayi, what deeper meaning and flavor have the locals discovered, shaping a culinary tradition that defines the city’s collective memory? Food culture offers a new lens through which the Chiayi Municipal Museum explores the city’s stories, and turkey rice stands at the heart of its identity【Note 1】. Launched in August 2024 and running through March 2, 2025,“Let’s Eat in Chiayi: Special Exhibition on Chiayi’s Turkey Rice ”(「來嘉呷飯—嘉義火雞肉飯特展」) incorporates findings from “citizen researchers”（ 「市民研究員」） and compiles tasting notes from dozens of local vendors. For those who have already savored turkey rice, the exhibition is a deeper journey into flavor; for newcomers, it serves as a guided exploration—an delicious entry point to one of Chiayi’s most beloved traditions. In 2022, the museum partnered with the Department of History at National Cheng Kung University to conduct research and exhibition planning. In addition to tracing the historical context of turkey rice, the team also worked closely with Chiayi’s “citizen researchers,” whose fieldwork, tasting evaluations, and literature reviews helped constructing a framework for interpreting the dish—centered on the meat, the rice, and the toppings. The exhibition places special focus on what makes Chiayi’s version unique: the use of turkey. The exhibition opens with a section titled The Social Life of Turkeys, tracing the “species origin” of turkey rice. It explores how the turkey, once considered strange and exotic species “discovered” during the Age of Exploration, were domesticated by humans and eventually transformed into a popular source of food. The narrative then shifts to the timeline of Taiwan’s history, showing how turkeys evolved from household sources of protein to the product of selective breeding and industrial farming, paving the way for today’s turkey rice industry.   The exhibition introduces the turkey from a historical perspective. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin) Immersive set designs were used in the exhibition to evoke the kitchen and storefront of turkey rice vendors, drawing visitors to explore the detailed cooking processes behind the dish. The vibrant and colorful layout of the exhibition space reflects the lively and competitive atmosphere of Chiayi’s many turkey rice establishments, each with its unique style and flavor.   Left: The exhibition uses playful design elements to simulate a restaurant setting. Right: Illustrated graphics recreate the feel of a kitchen, explaining each step of the preparation process in detail. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin) The exhibition also draws on a variety of archival materials and multimedia installations to retrace the origin of turkey rice. For example, frequent visits by President Chiang Ching-kuo helped boost the visibility of local eateries, turning them into media spotlights and elevating turkey rice to the status of a must-try dish in Chiayi. As celebrity influence and public discourse gained momentum, “Chiayi turkey rice” gradually cemented its place in the city’s collective memory. At the same time, vendors developed distinct preparation methods to adapt to the unique qualities of turkey meat, making the flavor of each shop truly one of a kind. Visitors can also delve deeper into the bite-sized facts about turkey rice through a range of historical materials—newspapers, statistical yearbooks, government exhibition catalogs, museum collections, diaries, and photographs. Literary excerpts evoke the aroma and flavor of the dish, offering a sensory connection to its cultural meaning. Even the business hours of local vendors reveal insights into the rhythms of daily life in Chiayi.   The exhibition presents anecdotes about turkey rice through archival materials, designed in a book-like flip display for visitors to browse. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin) To satisfy diverse palates, each vendor has crafted its own signature recipe, resulting in a wide array of flavor combinations and variations. Through illustrated diagrams, the exhibition breaks down the key components of turkey rice—rice, meat, and toppings—inviting visitors to discover how this humble dish has evolved into a field of culinary craftmanship. Highlights include the distinction between dark and white turkey meat【Note 2】, and the art of preparing crispy shallot oil as a key topping. Notably, the exhibition incorporates the efforts of “citizen researchers,” presenting their findings through an interpretive display titled Decoding a Bowl of Turkey Rice. This approach encourages visitors to reflect on their own food memories. For instance, one section showcases dozens of turkey rice bowls from local vendors, each illustrating unique ingredient combinations. Alongside the displays are vendor profiles and business cards, offering clues for visitors to follow up and taste their favorite after the exhibition. A multimedia interactive station even features a quiz to help you “discover your destined turkey rice.”   The exhibition uses illustrations to highlight the key elements that make up a bowl of turkey rice. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin)   Left: Each bowl of turkey rice represents a different local vendor, offering visitors clues to explore Chiayi’s culinary landscape. Right: Illustrated graphics reveal the unique ingredient combinations used by each shop. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin) This special exhibition not only traces the development of a local delicacy but also delves into the cultural meanings and collective memories behind it. Toward the end of the exhibition, visitors are invited to consider how food culture and local identity are shaped through the lens of tourism, creating a space for more voices to enter the conversation. One such feature, Let’s Talk! Our Turkey Rice combines thought-provoking questions with audio-visual recordings to present diverse public perspectives the public on this beloved dish.   In the Let’s Talk! Our Turkey Rice section, visitors can listen to memories and reflections on turkey rice shared by bloggers, TV media, and participants from community workshops. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin)   The exhibition also incorporates cutting-edge AI technology, using AI-generated portraits of local citizens to share their personal “secret lists” of favorite turkey rice vendors and their memories connected to the dish. (Photo by Chen, Pei-Hsin) 【Note 1】According to the 2022 statistical survey by the Ministry of Agriculture, Executive Yuan, the main turkey farming regions by administrative division are Yunlin County (59.51%), Chiayi County (14.30%), and Tainan City (22.87%). 【Note 2】In this context, “dark meat” and “white meat” refer to the distinction between turkey thigh and breast meat. The proportions used, cutting techniques, and even the methods of blanching vary subtly between the two, contributing to each vendor’s unique flavor profile.   ❚ English Editor: Cheung, Billy Chi-Yiu （M.A., Graduate Institute of Museum Studies, TNUA） ❚ Executive Editor: Hsieh, Chia-Chun

作者：陳佩歆（國立臺北藝術大學博物館研究所碩士生） 談到嘉義美食，為何「火雞肉飯」總是第一個浮現在腦海中？當大眾習慣將嘉義與火雞肉飯連結，嘉義人又吃出了什麼門道，進而形成獨特的城市記憶？ 「飲食文化」是嘉義市立博物館探詢城市故事的新視角，而「（火）雞肉飯」【註釋1】便成為當仁不讓的代表。2024年08月推出「來嘉呷飯—嘉義火雞肉飯特展」（展期至2025年03月02日）展覽融入「市民研究員」的調查成果，匯集嘉義市數十家店家的品評資訊。對於曾經品嚐過雞肉飯的饕客，是一場深入了解味蕾的旅程；而對於尚未嘗過的食客，則是一場探索美味的導「吃」之旅。 館方於2022年與國立成功大學歷史系合作，開始展覽資料蒐集調查與企劃，除了從歷史層面考據「火雞肉飯」，也和嘉義「市民研究員」攜手，藉由田調、品評與文獻梳理 ，產出一個詮釋火雞肉飯的架構：肉、飯與配料，並特別強調嘉義雞肉飯的獨特元素──火雞肉。 展覽主軸由「火雞的社會生命史」單元開始，揭開了火雞肉飯的「物種起源」。藉此認識「火雞」如何從大航海時代「被發現」的奇異物種，經過被人類豢養，最終成為餐桌上的佳餚。展覽接著將焦點轉向臺灣史的時間軸，呈現火雞從家戶飼養的蛋白質來源，經由品種改良與規模化養殖，逐步形成「火雞肉飯」產業的歷程。   展覽帶領觀眾從歷史的角度認識「火雞」。（陳佩歆 攝影） 展示以情境佈置，使觀眾聯想火雞肉飯店家的「廚房」與「店面」，深入解析火雞肉飯的製作工序吸引觀眾。展區設計色彩豐富、鮮明，呈現店家「百家爭鳴」的盛況。   左圖：展覽以趣味的設計模擬餐廳場景。／右圖：則以插圖輔助，營造廚房的感受，詳細說明每道工序的作法。（陳佩歆 攝影） 此外，展覽透過多元的文獻檔案和影音裝置回顧了「火雞肉飯」的誕生故事。例如，蔣經國總統勤於走訪，使得餐廳的曝光度大幅提升，成為媒體報導的焦點，讓「火雞肉飯」逐漸成為「嘉義」的必吃美食。隨著名人效應與輿論的推動，便逐步奠定了「嘉義火雞肉飯」在大眾記憶中的一席之地；而店家因應火雞肉特質的差異化製作，則讓每一家口味獨一無二。 觀眾也可透過報紙、統計年鑑、府展圖錄、美術館典藏、日記、照片等珍貴資料，吸收有關火雞肉飯的小知識，並從作家筆下感受飄香滋味。而店家的營業時段，更可窺見嘉義人日常生活的節奏。   展覽以文獻檔案回顧「火雞肉飯」的軼事，並設計成書冊形式的翻閱展版。（陳佩歆 攝影） 為了取悅客群，每家店都有各自的獨門配方，呈現出豐富多樣的組合與差異。展覽藉由插圖解構火雞肉飯的核心元素「飯、肉、配料」，帶領觀眾認識「火雞肉飯」如何形成一門學問，如紅、白肉的區別【註釋1】 、配料的油蔥煉製等。 值得關注的是，展覽藉由「市民研究員」的參與，將研究成果以「解讀一碗火雞肉飯」的形式呈現，並試圖連結觀眾的飲食記憶。例如，展覽可見數十碗來自當地不同店家的火雞肉飯展版，可見店家的搭配特色，還附上店家資訊及名片，提供觀眾觀展後探訪心儀店家的線索。也可透過多媒體互動裝置，以心理測驗「找出屬於你的命定火雞肉飯」。   展覽以插圖呈現形成火雞肉飯的各個重要元素。（陳佩歆 攝影） 左圖：來自不同店家的火雞肉飯介紹，每碗飯連結一家店，為觀眾提供探索「火雞肉飯」的美食線索。／右圖：插圖可見不同店家的配方特色。（陳佩歆 攝影） 特展不僅呈現一道地方美食的發展軌跡，更深入挖掘背後的文化內涵與在地記憶。展覽尾聲，邀請觀眾從觀光的視角，認識飲食文化與塑造在地意識的歷程，試圖讓更多聲音可以在此對話。如「聊聊吧！我們心目中的火雞肉飯」結合問題與影音裝置，呈現大眾對火雞肉飯的多元觀點。   「聊聊吧！我們心目中的火雞肉飯」展區，可以聆賞來自部落客、電視媒體、市民工作坊，對火雞肉飯的記憶與想像。（陳佩歆 攝影） 展覽也結合最新的AI技術，透過市民的AI生成人像與觀眾分享火雞肉飯的「私房名單」與對火雞肉飯的記憶。（陳佩歆 攝影） 【註釋1】根據行政院農業部111年統計調查資料顯示，以縣市別來看，火雞主要飼養區域為雲林縣（59.51％）、嘉義縣（14.30％）及臺南市（22.87％）為主。 【註釋2】紅、白肉在此是指火雞的「腿肉、胸肉」之差異，兩者的配比、切法、以至於燙熟的方式均有細微的差異   ❚ 執行編輯：謝佳均  

作者：王幸慈（荷蘭萊登大學藝術史碩士、藝文工作者） 甜點的存在，象徵階級身份的奢侈享受，也是暫時跳脫現實、進入片刻歡愉的橋樑。其色彩豔麗迷人，風味隨季節變化，時而甜膩、時而清爽，是餐桌上不能缺席的焦點。2024年末，荷蘭海牙美術館（Kunstmuseum Den Haag）推出「偉大的甜點——甜點的歷史」特展（Grand Dessert–The history of the dessert，展期至2025年04月06日），以甜點的色、香、味為主題，邀請觀眾一探甜點的起源與發展。   館方以大量的食物模型，結合典藏品，如餐具、餐巾等，重現昔日餐桌上的甜點盛況。（王幸慈 攝影） 展覽關注來自世界各地的甜點與文化，吸引甜點愛好者懷抱著極大的期待入場。策展敘事則以甜點種類、食材、用具為類別，發展十二個探索甜點多元面向的子題，包含布丁、糖、蛋糕、食譜、水果、巧克力、冰淇淋、兒童展覽室、甜點餐具、皇家甜點、甜點師傅。 在展示方式上，館方將館藏文物與當代藝術作品並陳，再現過去品嚐甜點的儀式感與精緻氛圍。除了大量的甜點模型，展覽隨處可見16至19世紀的精美古董餐具與藍陶花器，並展示了以玻璃、針織、糖花等材料製作，以甜點為主題的藝術作品。展覽亦將食譜圖錄轉化為展牆壁紙，供觀眾辨識各類甜點。不僅增添了展示設計的趣味性，也引導觀眾觀察甜點師如何隨著航海技術的躍進，在食譜裡添加跨海取得的異國食材與辛香料。   藝術家Kate Jenkins的針織作品，為荷蘭經典甜點之一Tompouce。（王幸慈 攝影） 觀眾可在甜點壁紙中認識古食譜與甜點圖錄的重要性。（王幸慈 攝影）   聞嗅！觸碰！親子友善的互動式甜點體驗 有趣的是，展覽將甜點製作過程所產生的各種特殊氣味，轉化為可供觀眾聞嗅體驗的互動裝置。這些氣味依主題設置在不同展間裡，使其氣味與同類別的展示品相互呼應，如以氣味濃烈的老起司作為開場，或以帶著杏桃香味的薩赫蛋糕（Sachertorte）使「巧克力」展間傳來陣陣獨特芬芳等，為觀眾創造出更具沉浸感的感官體驗。 此外，館方亦規劃部分展間作為獨立的兒童展覽室，提供兒童實際動手操作與發揮想像力的空間。其中包含18世紀的Sara Rothé娃娃屋、微型甜點模型與廚房玩具、呈現不同國家甜點的動畫短片，與甜點相關的兒童繪本，讓兒童藉由親子共讀與手動玩樂，更多認識不同文化的甜點故事。   展覽共設置12個不同氣味的聞嗅裝置供觀眾體驗。（王幸慈 攝影） 兒童展覽室一景，展牆後方另有繪本共讀及展示兒童畫作的空間。（王幸慈 攝影）   誰的甜點史？再現／侷限飲食文化的多元視角 展覽策展人Jenny van der Heijden提及，這是一檔講述「甜點世界史」的展覽。然而，即使觀眾身陷在眾多的甜點模型與餐具展品之間，仍可隱約察覺該展是以荷蘭視角出發、西歐為核心的甜點文化史。例如，以荷蘭經典樸實的甜點Vla【註釋1】做為定錨甜點發展的起點，說明17-18世紀的荷蘭廣受法式甜點的影響，逐漸發展出具代表性的荷式甜點，如荷蘭煎餅、蘋果派、Tompouce【註釋2】等等。 而與荷蘭相關的甜點地圖，亦隨著殖民主義的擴張而延伸至其他大陸。除了西歐地區，展覽還介紹了加勒比海、印尼、土耳其與摩洛哥等伊斯蘭國家的甜點。至於地理位置較為遙遠的東亞國家，則更多聚焦於當時的瓷器餐盤工藝，或來自亞、美洲的熱帶水果，而非深入講解當地甜點的發展脈絡。這也反映了策展人的野心與力有未殆的窘境，同時也揭示了詮釋飲食文化的侷限，特別是在面對地理與歷史差異時，如何平衡內容的全面性與深度，是策展人必須面對的挑戰。   館方邀請日本藝術家進行藝術創作，並以古瓷為載體呈現「和菓子」作品，可惜對和菓子的介紹付之闕如。（王幸慈 攝影） 鳳梨曾是歐洲視為高貴和充滿異國風情的象徵，在17世紀鳳梨圖像被大量流傳與使用。（王幸慈 攝影）   結語：反思甜點的多重面貌 整體而言，展覽以活潑的展示設計，結合多元的互動體驗、簡單易懂的文字，帶領觀眾走進「甜點」世界。然而，展覽不僅是對甜點感官世界的詮釋，也揭示了隱於美麗糖霜之下，來自殖民地的血淚歷史，如蘇利南裔荷蘭藝術家Natasja Sadi製作的糖花作品，紀念在蘇利南甘蔗田工作的非洲和印尼祖先，也象徵世代更迭下的自由與和解。讓觀眾在享受甜美的同時，也反思苦澀的過去。   兩座17世紀的台夫特藍陶金字塔型花瓶上，插滿了由藝術家Natasja Sadi的糖花創作。（王幸慈 攝影） 【註釋1】Vla是以糖、牛奶、蛋所組成的半液態甜點，質地類似卡士達醬。Vla是荷蘭家常的飯後甜點，有時與優格混合，稱為Vlaflip。 【註釋2】Tompouce是由鮮奶油餡料與千層酥組成的甜點，表面覆蓋粉紅色的糖霜。在國王節時，常見店家販售橘色版的Tompouce以示慶祝。   ❚ 執行編輯：謝佳均